The sun is shining over the harbor of Whitianga as I write this last blog post from New Zealand, though I'm sure I'll write about NZ plenty more. It's Friday, February 24 here and we fly out tomorrow evening from the Auckland airport.
We're here on the North Island, spending these last few days on the quiet and beautiful Coromandel Peninsula, about 2.5 hours outside of Auckland. I feel like perhaps we could have spent more time in New Zealand's biggest city (we'll spend a half day there tomorrow before the flight doing lunch and seeing the museum) but it's nice to be in a small town with plenty of beach and plenty of space. I'm not sure if it's the sabbatical or my introverted husband but I'm craving quiet and small places these days.
Whitianga (the "wh" pronounced "ff") is a small harbor town on the east edge of the peninsula. We got here Wednesday night (Feb 22, Ash Wednesday) after leaving Queenstown in the south island that morning and driving/traveling most of the day.
Prior to that, we spent three nights/four days backpacking the Kepler Track. It rained every day but we were in huts two of the three nights and met the most interesting people. College-aged girls from Holland, a former Israeli soldier, retired couples from New Zealand, fresh-from-high school German guys seeing the world. My favorite was a young man from Germany who camped near us one night. He said this was his first backpacking trip and he came equipped with an actual Coleman stove (plus fuel), cans and cans of food and blue jeans. He said he'd learned a few lessons for next time! The Kiwis we met gave us great advice on the north island and the Israeli taught us a great new card game. Oh, we met some Americans too: from Virgina and South Lake Tahoe.
So the people were great but the scenery was even better. The Kepler track follows a ridge line in the Kepler Mountains (think: the hills are alive...with the sound of music) and we got views of nearby lakes and faraway mountain ranges. We got a lot of rain but the clouds parted enough each day for views. The final two days were mostly hiking through forests along the Wairu River and we saw some beautiful marsh land that was used in the filming of Lord of the Rings (dead marshes scene).
The primary day of alpine scenery was the day we spent on the ridgeline, which happened to be Sunday, Feb. 19. I thought of the folks at Central, as I have every Sunday of the sabbatical. Then I tried to remember what day it was. I remembered suddenly: the Transfiguration. Jesus on the mountain, shining bright. Peter, who is so dumbfounded that he wants to build a permanent shelter. But it wasn't to be, no matter the view from the ridge, Peter was on his way to the plains.
I thought about Peter as the clouds lifted that day and we got the most amazing alpine views. I'd like to stay on this mountain, I thought. I'd like to build a cabin on this ridgeline and see these mountains every day. I'd like to look down at the tiny lake below. I'd like to spend this much time with Erik and laugh together as much every day back home as we have on this trip. But the hike moved on and we descended that day, as did Peter. We hiked down about 2700 feet, quads burning to prove it. We couldn't stay on the mountain. But then I remembered that God goes with us into the plains and valleys. It is an assurance of peace.
As I mentioned, we traveled to the north island on Wednesday, Ash Wednesday. I kept thinking about how it was Ash Wednesday and how I wished to be part of a worshipping community. I wanted to hear someone sing "Ashes" and feel the grit on my forehead as someone said "Remember that you are dust, and to dust you shall return." Well, it wasn't to be, since we didn't come across anyplace on our drive to the peninsula and it was getting very late anyway by the time we arrived. So I made the cross on my own forehead and I remembered and I practiced gratitude.
We arrived here in Whitianga about 8 pm that night, tired from the windy roads and me a bit carsick. We pulled into the B&B (no reservation but we hadn't needed one yet) and of course it was full. But the proprietor ushered us in and sat us down at a computer to look at other B&Bs and called around and found us an amazing place. He asked what we did and I gave him my standard "I work at a Lutheran church" line. But he pressed and I told him I was clergy. He told me that he was Baptist and that he was a lay preacher and was working on his sermon just then. I told him how I'd really wanted to receive ashes that day; apparently it wasn't a tradition his church kept. Anyway, his grace landed us a room at a little B&B called "Absolute Beachview," and it is.
Our hosts are lovely, the breakfasts are delicious and our place is right on the beach. Our hostess sets out cookies every afternoon and there's a huge, peaceful lounge area to sit and read and watch. It rained much of yesterday but we took a hike to a place called Cathedral Cove on a beach nearby and the view was still good. We also found a small winery yesterday and sipped Pinot Noir while the rain fell.
Today the sun is bright and we did a 4-hour kayak around the bay. We had a picnic around noon with some artisinal local cheeses Erik found at a market here in town. We picked up some extra, for happy hour, which is about to start.
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